Havana’s iconic Coppelia ice cream parlor, a beloved establishment since its 1966 opening, has reopened after a three-month closure, much to the delight of local residents. The closure was a result of Cuba’s ongoing economic challenges, which have also impacted the ice cream parlor’s affordability. Despite a 60-percent government subsidy, the updated price list has raised concerns that many locals, with an average monthly salary of just over US$40, may no longer afford to indulge in this once-accessible treat.
Coppelia, a modernist building with room for 547 patrons, became a symbol of Cuban resilience and culture. It was featured in the 1993 Oscar-nominated film Strawberry and Chocolate, bringing international attention to the parlor. Originally conceived by Fidel Castro as a way to provide the Cuban people with affordable ice cream despite the US trade embargo, Coppelia’s menu initially offered 26 flavors.
However, following the economic crisis in Cuba during the 1990s, which was sparked by the collapse of the Soviet Union, the ice cream shop faced difficulties in maintaining its quality and variety. Production costs soared due to rising agricultural prices, and the increasing presence of private ice cream shops added more pressure. Since 2021, Cuba has allowed small and medium-sized private enterprises to operate, adding to the competition faced by state-run establishments like Coppelia.
Jose Antonio Gonzalez, the 61-year-old manager of Coppelia, explained that the temporary closure in November was necessary to address pricing issues. When the parlor shut down, it was only able to offer one flavor of ice cream. Now, after reopening on February 5, Coppelia serves eight flavors, though some longtime customers have expressed dissatisfaction with the change in taste and the increased prices.
Victor Montoya, an 82-year-old local resident, expressed his joy at the reopening, but others, like 47-year-old Mijail Morales, worry that the price hikes will prevent many people from visiting regularly. “It doesn’t taste like the Coppelia ice cream from five months ago, never mind the ice cream of 10, 15, or 20 years ago,” he said.
Just around the corner, a private ice cream shop called Sabor Cid has gained attention, offering 24 different flavors. However, the prices there are considerably higher, with a single scoop costing more than US$3. State employee Erena Cobo praised the ice cream, calling it “exquisite,” but acknowledged that the price made it difficult to compare to Coppelia.
Despite the growing competition from private businesses, Gonzalez believes that Coppelia will remain a dominant player due to its subsidized prices, central location, and large volume of sales, with the parlor distributing 1,200 10-liter tubs per day. He emphasized that the establishment’s vast size and cultural significance have earned it the nickname “the Cathedral of Ice Cream.”
As Cuba faces its most severe economic crisis in three decades, with inflation, frequent blackouts, and shortages of essentials, many residents hope that Coppelia will continue to offer an affordable respite. However, whether the ice cream parlor can maintain its legacy of providing inexpensive treats in such difficult times remains uncertain.
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