Taiwan continues to solidify its status as a global culinary hotspot with the release of the 2024 Michelin Guide, which saw the addition of ten new Michelin-starred establishments, bringing the total number of starred restaurants to 49. Among the standout newcomers is Minimal, a unique ice cream shop in Taichung that has made history by becoming the world’s first ice cream establishment to receive a Michelin star.
Located in a quiet alley off the tree-lined Calligraphy Greenway, Minimal is distinguished by its minimalist design and understated, Nordic-inspired façade. The two-story venue features both a takeaway counter and a dining area, where guests can indulge in a seven-course tasting menu focused on ice and ice cream.
The Michelin Guide praised Minimal for its innovative approach, highlighting the restaurant’s ability to manipulate flavors and textures through creative temperature variations, often using locally sourced ingredients from Taiwan. The review notes, “The meticulous flavors, delicacy, and skilled techniques all impressed us and reached a higher level, warranting a Michelin star.”
A Passion for Ice
At the heart of Minimal is founder Arvin Wan, whose childhood fascination with ice laid the foundation for his unique culinary path. Wan recalls eating ice cubes daily from his family’s refrigerator, captivated by the sensation of ice melting on his tongue. Over time, this childhood curiosity blossomed into a professional passion.
“I grew up in a single-parent household,” says Wan. “After culinary school, I worked long hours as a chef while my mother battled cancer. I didn’t have much time with her, and after her passing, I reflected on how I wanted to live my life going forward.” Wan left the restaurant kitchen to reconnect with the joy he found in ice and ice cream, ultimately founding Minimal in 2021.
Before opening his own shop, Wan worked as head pastry chef at Sur-, a Michelin-starred Taiwanese restaurant, where he honed his skills before venturing back to his true passion: ice.
“I wanted to create something that was all about ice,” Wan says. “Desserts often play a secondary role in meals, but ice — it’s the one thing I truly love.”
A Cold Culinary Experience
Minimal offers a one-of-a-kind dining experience, with a menu that plays with extreme temperatures. The restaurant’s seven-course tasting menu features dishes served at varying temperatures, from the -40°C Wild Ginger Flowers/Sake ice lollipop to the -196°C Strawberry/Roselle/Cream dish, created with liquid nitrogen. Each course is designed to challenge guests’ perceptions of ice and its culinary possibilities.
“The most important thing is to understand how different temperatures affect the texture and taste of ice,” Wan explains. For example, the -40°C lollipop has a unique crunchy texture that slowly melts in the mouth like cotton candy, due to the air bubbles carefully incorporated into the mixture.
The menu also includes a variety of seasonal ingredients, such as biluochun green tea paired with sugarcane and Angelica morii, and pine needles with Camellia seed oil. Wan’s use of cold temperatures not only affects texture but also the flavors and aromas of each dish, with carefully chosen ingredients enhancing the overall taste experience.
Pushing the Limits of Ice Cream
Running an ice cream-focused restaurant involves much more than churning ingredients in a machine. Wan’s team has to experiment with various temperatures, creating ice cream dishes that are both visually stunning and flavorful. To maintain the precision required for each dish, the kitchen is equipped with specialized refrigeration units that help control the freezing and serving temperatures.
Wan admits that creating ice-based dishes that are both aromatic and flavorful at low temperatures is one of his biggest challenges. “Most ice doesn’t have much aroma because fragrance becomes inactive below zero,” he says. “To overcome this, I use complementary ingredients like mint or Angelica morii to enhance the flavor profile.”
Despite his refined approach to ice cream, Wan remains humble in his love for simpler treats, often enjoying inexpensive local ice desserts, such as qing bing, a nostalgic Taiwanese shaved ice treat.
Rediscovering the Joy of Ice
Reflecting on his journey, Wan hopes Minimal will help diners rediscover the simple joy of eating ice. “As children, we loved ice cream and iced desserts, but as we grow older, that sense of excitement fades,” he says. “I want to bring that feeling back, to remind people of the thrill of eating ice, just like the first time they had ice cream.”
With Minimal now a Michelin-starred destination, Wan has succeeded not only in redefining ice cream as a fine dining experience but also in rekindling the childhood joy of frozen treats for adults.
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