The origins of ice cream are shrouded in myth, with tales of Marco Polo introducing it to Europe and Catherine de’ Medici bringing it to France. However, these stories, though fascinating, lack historical evidence. Contrary to popular belief, Marco Polo neither introduced ice cream nor pasta to Europe, and some scholars even doubt whether he ever traveled to China. These myths, likely propagated by the Victorians, have little basis in reality.
Early Beginnings in China (A.D. 618-907)
The first documented evidence of something resembling ice cream comes from China during the Tang Dynasty (A.D. 618-907). During this period, a rudimentary form of ice cream was made by heating milk from buffalo, cows, and goats and allowing it to ferment. This early version of yogurt was then thickened with flour and flavored with camphor, a substance more commonly associated with medicinal uses today. The mixture was then chilled before being served. King Tang of Shang, a notable figure of this era, employed a staggering 2,271 people, including 94 dedicated ice men, to produce this delicacy.
The Development of Freezing Techniques (A.D. 1230-1280)
The method of freezing food using a mixture of salt and ice, which lowers the freezing point to achieve temperatures below -14°C, is believed to have originated in China. This technique was documented in India as early as the 4th century and was later described in detail by the Arab medical historian Ibn Abu Usaybi (A.D. 1230-1270). However, the process did not make its way to Europe until 1503, where it was initially regarded as a party trick among chemists. It wasn’t until the 1660s that this method was applied to food, leading to the creation of water ices, or sorbets, in Naples, Florence, Paris, and Spain. By 1664, the first sweetened milk ices, or ice creams, appeared in Naples.
Ice Cream in England (A.D. 1671)
Ice cream made its debut in England at a banquet for the Feast of St. George at Windsor Castle in 1671. The dessert was so exotic and rare that only the guests seated at King Charles II’s table were served “one plate of white strawberries and one plate of iced cream.” The rest of the attendees could only watch in amazement as the royal guests indulged in this luxurious treat.
The popularity of ice cream led wealthy individuals to build ice houses on their estates, where ice harvested in the winter was stored under straw and bark until the summer. This ice was used to chill drinks and make water ices and ice creams. However, the ice itself was of poor quality and was never directly added to the food, but only used to cool it.
The recipe for making ice cream was a closely guarded secret, with the first English recipe not appearing until 1718. The French introduced the technique of making custard-based ice cream using egg yolks around the middle of the 18th century, laying the foundation for what we now recognize as custard-based ice cream. Americans wouldn’t get their first taste of ice cream until 1800.
See Also: Why Is Gelato so Expensive?
The Ice Cream Machine and Mass Production (A.D. 1843)
The invention of the ice cream machine in 1843 revolutionized the production of ice cream. This device, developed independently in England and America, consisted of a wooden bucket filled with ice and salt, with a central metal container for the ice cream mixture. A handle rotated the container, churning the mixture and producing a smooth, even texture. Before this, ice cream had to be made in a pewter pot placed in a bucket of ice and salt, with the mixture regularly hand-stirred and scraped from the sides using a special tool called a spaddle.
The availability of ice was crucial for ice cream production. In the early 19th century, ice was imported from Norway, Canada, and America, making ice cream more accessible to the general public in the UK. The ice was transported to London and other major ports and distributed via canals to ice houses, where it was sold to ice cream makers. This burgeoning industry, largely run by Italians, led to an influx of workers from southern Italy and the Ticino region of Switzerland to England.
In London, these immigrants lived in squalid conditions, particularly in the Holborn area. Carlo Gatti, a prominent figure in the ice trade, built massive ice house pits near Kings Cross in the 1850s, where he stored ice shipped from Norway. These ice houses have since been opened to the public at The London Canal Museum.
The Advent of Mechanical Refrigeration
The introduction of mechanical refrigeration using electricity and gas at the end of the 19th century transformed the ice cream industry. No longer dependent on natural ice, it became possible to transport and store ice cream over longer periods, leading to its widespread availability. Before this, ice cream had to be consumed within hours of being made due to the difficulty of keeping it frozen. The advent of mechanical refrigeration marked the beginning of the mass market for ice cream, setting the stage for the global industry we know today.
